Even though it's origins date back to the 13th Century, there is a very modern feeling to Amsterdam, as Rose and I discovered. The other thing we discovered is that this is the city we could spend the rest of our lives in: it is a remarkable mixture of history and contemporary convenience, artistic sensibility and earthly delights. The trams, for instance, are silent, frequent, and relatively inexpensive. There are dedicated bicycle lanes and it is clear this is a city council which has embraced the importance of the bicycle as a means of mass transit. Look, for instance, at this picture of bikes parked in the centre of town.
Thousands of bikes, everywhere. And no one bats an eye except tourists when a mother rides along in the rain with one hand on an umbrella, the other on the bike, while a young child balances in the front seat on the handlebars, another sits calmly behind in a toddler's seat, and a third looks at the world from a backpack. Mum looks all the while as if this is just another routine start to an Amsterdam June day.
The city centre is very walkable, what with the many canals to stroll along or to look down, the various examples of Dutch architecture, the use of colours and flowers, and the range of canal boats.
I had no idea that Amsterdam was riddled with canals, and every walk was a bit of a mystery, a treasure hunt. In the picture on the right, Rose is clutching our dear friend from Norwich, Steve Laddiman. He and good wife Hazel flew over from England to join us on the canal boat for three days and we had a blast together. There are few places I can recommend as I can Amsterdam in late June. Hollyhocks in full bloom sprouting up out of the cement, as if they thrive on concrete dust; light morning showers every day gave way by noon to sun, cafes, wine, and walking. Norwich just over the water. It was glorious. As I said, I could live the rest of my life in Amsterdam. Another reason to buy lottery tickets.
One of so many curiously Dutch buildings that are as much of treat to the eye as the tree lined canals and colourful boats. |
We took a train with Steve and Hazel out to Harlaam, about 15 minutes from the central train station. This brings us into the medieval Netherlands. Harlaam at one time was the major northern city in the country, seat of local government, and weilding a mighty economic punch. This was before Amsterdam and Rotterdam grew in importance. It retains its 14th century town square, Grote Markt, and several of the buildings there at the time. Talk about stepping back in time. While we were visiting, we came across Marching Band Sunday and got to sit by the square enjoying our whisky and lager as a variety of marching bands vied for supremacy, or simply strutted their stuff for all the locals. It must have been a fairly big deal because bleachers were set out, dignitaries pronounced, and families gathered. It seemed a bit odd, I must admit, to hear one of the more significant songs from my youth: Eleanor Rigby (few versions came as such a surprise as this one did).
Grote Markt in Harlaam |
One of so many flower shops at the Amsterdam flower market. |
This gentleman agreed to stand for a picture moments after I marvelled at his moustache. |
Playing Eleanor Rigby in the medieval square. A timeless song in a timeless place. But a marching song? |
Back in Amsterdam one of several lovely canal side restaurants. That's Hazel with Rose. Steve's in the light blue and shorts. The food was divine, as were the ducks, bikes, and lazy passing of time. |
Captain Eugene on our morning of departure. He was a great host and I recommend his services highly. |
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